Monday 5 January 2009




VALENCIENNES







If you are looking for a city break and do not want the hustle and bustle normally associated with many other destinations, then Valenciennes may be the place for you.
Located in the heart of Europe, a mere 1 hr 40 minutes from Calais, it is teeming with arts and heritage. Unsurprisingly, Valenciennes has been dubbed the “Athens of the North”.
The Nord-Pas de Calais has created the concept of a regional capital of culture as a biennial event. The city hopes to be named as the first region to be awarded this accolade.
It is hoped to provide a welcome boost and a springboard to becoming as famous as neighbouring Lille.


Our group travelled on P & O Ferries from Dover and when we arrived in Calais we drove for an hour and a half to Valenciennes.
An English speaking guide introduced himself before we were taken on a guided tour, pointing out the most interesting sights.
In recent years, Valenciennes has been renovated but it has lost none of its unique charming character.


The new town centre has been transformed into a large square to provide a bigger pedestrian area and tramway. Many of the streets are dotted with people without being overrun. There are rolling hills and many houses have retained their 14th to 15th century origins with sliding shutters in front of the windows.

After the city tour, we were taken to Le Grand Duc (www.legrandduc.fr), our hotel accommodation for the first night of our stay. Set in landscaped grounds, Le Grand Duc was built as an early 19th century mansion. I was astonished by the luxury accommodation that oozes tranquillity and comfort. The only one of its kind in the north, its owner Phillipe Collet summed up the site in a few simple words: “We are not a hotel but you can stay here. We are not a restaurant but you can eat here.”
Not only is Collet an artist, he is a talented chef who served up a delicious feast.
Each room has its own design as Collet has added his own personal touch to the Victorian guesthouse. It is a vibrant mix of the modern and the olde worlde with furniture reminiscent of Ikea, wacky paintings and sculptures.
With a comfortable bed, shower, desk and television, all the rooms have all the mod cons a guest could need.
After breakfast on the following day, we were taken to The Grand Hotel (www.grand-hotel-de-valenciennes.fr), which is a stone’s throw from Valenciennes station.
It was reminiscent of a cruise liner from the early 1900s with green pillars, a spherical ceiling and low draped curtains. The brasserie had a good selection of foods but the choice of food doesn’t stop the stop there, as the restaurant offers a truly gastronomic experience.
For those who love their food, restaurants in Valenciennes offer a variety of local specialities such as lucullus (smoked tongue and foie gras), gateau Carpeaux with chestnuts and sottises de Valenciennes a la menthe (confectionary).
When we arrived, we had to don a chef hat for a cooking lesson in the hotel kitchen. We were shown how to create how to create Gateaux, a tart made with brioche dough and creamed doughnuts. I’m not going to give Nigella a run for her money but nevertheless I had great fun making the dish.
For lunch, it was a delicious three course meal including the dessert we made. The hospitality was warm with staff providing service with a smile.
If you are in Valenciennes and fancy a splash of culture then head down to the Matisse museum in Le Cateau Cambresis. Our group was taken to Le Cateau Cambresis, which has a collection dedicated to one of the region’s favourite sons.
Housed in a small 17th century chateau, the museum also display works by Herbin, Genevieve Classe and others.
On the second night of our trip, we had dinner and stayed overnight at L’Hostelliere/L’Hotel du Chateau D’Aubry (www.chateau-aubry.com). The 12th century moated castle is set in stunning woodland and is the perfect haven of serenity and calm. Long corridors are adorned with classic Victorian paintings, low hanging chandeliers can be found in the dining room and the walls are awash with pastel colours. The trees in the garden act as a buffer zone to the lake, creating a lush green look.
On the final day of the trip, we checked out of the castle and paid a visit to the Pharaoh exhibition at the Valenciennes Fine arts museum. The exhibition retraces the central role of the Pharaoh in Ancient Egypt and boasts 248 artworks.
We had an early lunch at the Auberge du Bon Fermier (www.bonfermier.com) before catching our ferry back to Britain.
I was wowed by the treasures of Valenciennes such as its rich cultural heritage and delicious culinary delights.

ESSENTIALS:
Getting there:
P& O Ferries have 25 crossings a day from Dover to Calais. Return fares are from £50. For information, quotes and to make a booking visit www.POferries.com or call 08705 20 20 20.
Nearest airport is Lille, (+33 (0) 8 91 67 32 10, www.lilleaeroport.fr).
High speed rail connection operates between Lille and St Pancras International (www.eurostar.com, 08705 186 186) with fares beginning at £55.
Where to stay:
Le Grand Duc (+33 (0) 3 27 46 40 30, www.legrandduc.fr, contact@legrandduc.fr).
Rooms cost from £60 per night.
Le Grand Hotel (+33 (0) 327 463 201, www.grand-hotel-de-valenciennes.fr, grandhotel.val@wanadoo.fr).
Rooms cost from 80 euro’s/ £110 per night CHECK PRICE IN POUNDS, breakfast is £6.
L’Hotel du Chateau d’Aubry (+33 (0) 3 27 21 88 88, www.chateau-aubry.com, chateau.aubry@wanadoo.fr).
Rooms cost from £38 per night.
ACTIVITIES:
For culture, browse around the castles, museums and churches
The Matisse museum is housed in Le Cateau Cambresis (+33 (0) 3 27 84 64 50, museematisse@cg59.fr, www.cg59.fr). To make a group reservation, call (0) 3 27 84 64 64.
Call (0) 33 3 27 22 46, visit http://www.hordpasaecalais.fr/, www.capitaleregionaledelaculture.com for information on the Fine Arts Museum Valenciennes
With its forests and meadows, the Scorpe and Escaut countryside is the ideal location for relaxation and sports. There are large lakes offering a wide range of water sports facilities.
Made up of a mosaic of countryside and four magnificent forests, it offers beautiful trails for walkers, hikers and nature lovers.

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